Edinburgh, Scotland: where history ambles alongside the present
Plan your trip to the Scottish capital
Edinburgh's charm can be seen everywhere, from the cobblestones to the castles. For all of its history, though, the city's modern side is also on full display in the vibrant food and arts scenes.
A walk through the centuries
The Royal Mile links Edinburgh Castle and Holyrood Palace, with lots of stops along the way. This is where visitors can shop for the perfect souvenir, like a wool scarf or tweed bag; swing by a bar for a whisky tasting; listen to bagpipe players perform on the street; and explore such historic sites as St. Giles' Cathedral, which has been a working church for nearly 900 years. Harry Potter fans will want to take a quick detour to nearby Victoria Street, the assumed inspiration for Diagon Alley.
Mountaintop or street-side: views that stun
Great views are easy to come by in Edinburgh, and one of the best spots to take in the city is Arthur's Seat in Holyrood Park. It can be a bit of a strenuous walk up this ancient volcano, but it's worth it. Calton Hill also has panoramic views and is home to several neoclassical structures, including the National Monument and Dugald Stewart Monument. Visit later in the afternoon to enjoy the sunset.
Subscribe to The Week
Escape your echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news, plus analysis from multiple perspectives.
Sign up for The Week's Free Newsletters
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to a weekly Good News Newsletter, get the best of The Week delivered directly to your inbox.
Want to live like a local? Head down to Broughton Street and meander through the independent stores before checking out the weekend markets, where you can pick up vegetables, teas, jams, jewelry and crafts and interact with area residents. Dean Village is another picturesque neighborhood to explore, with stone buildings and colorful cottages.
Weather permitting, take a stroll through Princes Street Gardens, home of the ornate cast-iron Ross Fountain, and the Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh. Covering 70 acres, the botanic garden offers a peaceful respite and free admission.
Museums for art lovers and readers
Culture abounds in Edinburgh, and there are museums for every age and interest. There's the National Museum of Scotland, the Scottish National Portrait Gallery, the Museum of Edinburgh and Scottish National Gallery, described by Conde Nast Traveler as "the Louvre of Edinburgh." The Writer's Museum is a celebration of beloved Scottish poets and novelists Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott and Robert Louis Stevenson, and the Museum of Childhood displays historic games and toys.
Food for (nearly) every appetite
Start the day at Greenwoods with some fluffy pancakes or perfectly poached eggs Benedict. The Full Scottish Breakfast comes appropriately loaded with eggs, sausage, smoked bacon, haggis, roasted mushrooms, roasted tomato, baked beans, hash browns and toast. Ask for a window seat so you can people watch while you dine. Rocksalt Cafe also has solid breakfast and lunch menus, with cute latte art.
The Magnum has some of the best fish and chips in town, with the haddock battered in lager and the tartar sauce made in-house. More adventurous options include the deep-fried Camembert with a cranberry and red currant sauce and the haggis spring roll.
For a spiced 180, make your way to Dishoom. This London-born restaurant chainlet "pays homage to the Irani cafes and the food of all Bombay," and is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. It's known for its comforting chai and naan that is baked to order.
At McGonagall's Gin and Whisky Emporium, the choice is yours. The menu has more than 100 gin cocktails and 120 whisky cocktails. And while the food options aren't as vast, there is still a wide selection of traditional dishes, from Scotch eggs to bangers and mash to beef and beer pie.
No two days are the same at Mary's Milk Bar. The gelato flavors change daily, and include the classic (hazelnut, dark chocolate) and the singular (earl grey and spice cookie; pear and gorgonzola; ricotta and coffee syrup). Mary makes it all, as well as artisan chocolates. (Note that Mary's often closes for a few weeks each winter.)
One thing to keep in mind: It's important to plan ahead in Edinburgh and make reservations when possible. Otherwise, it can be difficult to secure a table.
The lodgings to know
The Witchery offers opulence in all nine of its suites, with dramatic draperies, four-poster beds, gilded furniture and antique decor. The baroque Original Dining Room is equally over-the-top and serves "the finest Scottish ingredients, from succulent Scottish lobster and langoustines to perfectly aged Angus beef steak tartare." There's also The Secret Garden, which has a painted ceiling featuring angels with bagpipes and tarot imagery and is illuminated mostly by candlelight.
Cheval The Edinburgh Grand is in the middle of it all. The central location puts the comfortable hotel within steps of St. Giles' Cathedral, Calton Hill and the Scottish National Gallery, and the apartment-like accommodations are spacious with kitchens and living rooms. The hotel is inside a restored bank, and the gym is in the bank's former vault.
The Balmoral is described as "a love letter to Scotland." That is apparent right at check-in, when guests are greeted by staffers wearing the bespoke Balmoral Hotel Edinburgh tartan. The rooms are warm and inviting, and several have great views of the city and Edinburgh Castle. Afternoon tea is served in the elegant Palm Court, where guests can listen to a harpist play as they sip on one of the menu's 88 teas.
Create an account with the same email registered to your subscription to unlock access.
Sign up for Today's Best Articles in your inbox
A free daily email with the biggest news stories of the day – and the best features from TheWeek.com
Catherine Garcia is night editor for TheWeek.com. Her writing and reporting has appeared in Entertainment Weekly and EW.com, The New York Times, The Book of Jezebel, and other publications. A Southern California native, Catherine is a graduate of the University of Redlands and the Columbia University Graduate School of Journalism.
-
What's next for US interest rates?
The Explainer Stubborn inflation forestalls anticipated rate cuts
By Becca Stanek, The Week US Published
-
Russia rattles nuclear saber, orders tactical nuke drills
Speed Read President Vladimir Putin has ordered Russian military to hold nuclear weapons drills in response to Western "threats"
By Peter Weber, The Week US Published
-
Five top new women's watches
The Week Recommends From dancing diamonds to reconfigured classics, these models were recently revealed at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2024
By Alexandra Zagalsky Published
-
Five top new women's watches
The Week Recommends From dancing diamonds to reconfigured classics, these models were recently revealed at Watches & Wonders Geneva 2024
By Alexandra Zagalsky Published
-
Best beach cafes around the UK
The Week Recommends Enjoy freshly cooked food within sight of the sea – whatever the weather
By Adrienne Wyper, The Week UK Published
-
My Arbor: a unique treetop retreat in the Dolomite mountains
The Week Recommends Detox like a true European in the South Tyrol region of northernmmost Italy
By Harriet Marsden, The Week UK Published
-
Movies to watch in May, from 'Furiosa' to 'The Fall Guy'
The Week Recommends A low-fi A24 horror, a May-December romance inspired by Harry Styles and more
By Anya Jaremko-Greenwold, The Week US Published
-
TV to watch in May, from 'Bridgerton' to 'Black Twitter: A People's History'
The Week Recommends The return of an HBO staple, a new series from the filmmaker behind 'Tiger King,' and more
By Anya Jaremko-Greenwold, The Week US Published
-
Recipe: almond marmalade cake
The Week Recommends This syrupy cake can be toasted for brunch
By The Week UK Published
-
Our growing taste for bubble tea
The Week Recommends The trend for boba-based beverages shows no sign of ending
By Adrienne Wyper, The Week UK Published
-
7 magnificent hotels to visit before the summer crowds descend
The Week Recommends Have beach time in the Dominican Republic or a spa day in Saint-Tropez
By Catherine Garcia, The Week US Published